Here’s where you’ll find MICHELIN Sommelier Award Winner Marco Thompson of Osteria Giulia relaxing on a quiet afternoon.
At work, Marco Thompson sets his laser focus on Italian wine. Thompson is the general manager of Osteria Giulia, a MICHELIN-starred restaurant helmed by Chef Rob Rossi.
“We bring attention to everything Italy has to offer. The program focuses mainly on Barolo, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, and grape varietals from throughout Italy,” says Thompson.
With an impressive 550- to 600-label wine list, Osteria Giulia has won awards for its breadth. And as its steward, Thompson is the current MICHELIN 2023 Sommelier Award Winner.
Outside of work though, Thompson is happy to explore beyond Italy. Here’s where Toronto’s top sommelier goes to raise a toast.
When you go out, do you choose a restaurant based on the wine program?
Marco Thompson (MT): It’s more overall for me. I look a little more at the hospitality side of things and the experience side of things first, and then the wine list and beverage programs afterwards. It’s a complimentary piece to what restaurants do.
I always say wine tastes differently depending where, when and who you’re enjoying it with. If you’re having a great meal at a great restaurant—no matter what bottle you’re having—it’s going to be an exceptional bottle of wine. The fact that many restaurants have a really good selection just adds to the entire experience.
What are your go-to Toronto restaurants?
MT: Two favourites are Edulis and Quetzal—their food is amazing, their wine programs are amazing, their cocktail programs are amazing. Everything about them is exceptional.
Edulis is so cozy. You go in and it feels like you’re in this little alpine restaurant in Europe. The hospitality is warm, they’ve always got smiles on and take you to your seat.
The food is out of this world; everything I’ve ever had there is absolutely amazing. Sunday brunch is my favourite time to go; they’ve got a set menu and half-price wine on their exceptional wine list.
Besides great food, it’s also the best wine deal in the city: I cannot recommend that more!
Quetzal is more of a vibe if you’re looking for a restaurant that’s a little louder, more fun. It’s smokey—they cook everything directly on coals, directly on the fire—and bring you back to the roots.
Everything about it has a story: every dish they serve, the dish they serve it on, the cocktail, the glass it’s in, it all comes from Mexico and is all handmade.
They’re very knowledgeable about where everything came from and why everything is on your table. Everything has a purpose, which I think is very unique. Their wine program is great, their beverage program in general—the cocktails are amazing as well.
What about wine bars? Are there some you wish more people knew about?
MT: There are lots of little hidden gems! The Wood Owl is a beautiful wine bar and they do food as well.
Paradise Grapevine makes its own wine here in Toronto and has a great selection of other local wines. Their wine bar on Bloor Street West has a cute little back patio that I love to hang out on on Sunday afternoons.
You can go in the shade and enjoy a really nice bottle of wine on the patio. They have a good selection of Pearl Morrissette, which I gravitate towards always.
The last time I was there, I was with a winemaker from Italy, and we had a bottle of Roselana, a rosé from Pearl Morrissette. I wanted to show him a local spot and some local wine, and I think he really enjoyed both of those things!
Also, Boxcar Social—they’ve got three locations around the city—is a hangout spot with a great selection of wines and beer. The one in my neighbourhood on Yonge Street has a back patio.
We don’t get enough sunshine in Toronto, so the minute it becomes nice I’m looking for patios that are not right on a road and are a little quieter where you can relax, start off with coffee in the morning and then move on to snacks, wine and drinks in the afternoon. I think what they’re doing is really fun.
Paris Paris on Ossington Street is a place that’s a little livelier and Grape Witches around the corner does more of the natural wine scene and a lot of the local wines as well.
Are there any restaurants in the city that might consider you a regular?
MT: For a relaxing dinner, I’m at The Wood Owl a lot. It’s a cute neighbourhood spot midtown. One reason I go here is for the wine list: it’s definitely impressive.
It’s focused on Spanish wines; the price points are really good, and the selection is small but very precise and well-selected.
And the food is always amazing! It’s always changing; every time I go, they have a different menu. On Wednesdays, they do a pasta feature, which is always really good. If I’m off on Wednesday, you’ll often find me there with my wife for pasta, snacks and a nice bottle of Spanish wine.
What wine regions and wineries in Ontario do you like to visit?
MT: I like to go to the Niagara Bench area. My wife grew up there, and once every three to four months, we like to go out and have lunch at Pearl Morrissette, which is one of the best restaurants in Ontario at the moment.
The wines are absolutely amazing: they’re the only Ontario wines that I’ve seen outside of the Canadian market while I’m travelling abroad.
We often go to Treadwell and Oban Inn restaurants in Niagara-on-the-Lake. They have deep wine lists, amazing food and it’s always a great time hanging out there.
Another favourite is Stratus Vineyards. J-L Groux, and now Dean Stoyka, really focus on sustainable practices and precision winemaking. They’re just beautiful, clean expressions of what Ontario can produce.
We also always stop by Southbrook Organic Vineyards; I believe they were the first biodynamic winery in Canada—pioneers in that scene—and they’re pushing the winemaking practices in the direction I think everybody should be going in.
And also, Big Head Wines. I’m from Veneto, Italy, so to see people doing great things with appassimento… At Big Head, he’s doing really interesting things and using really cool winemaking techniques from my area of the world, so I have a little special place in my heart for them, obviously!
